Day 19: some fairly long climbs today and 10 kilometres of gravel — not my favourite. Big climb then big descent, hard on the hands and very aware of the consequences of getting it wrong. We had a wee boat ride across the estuary — all of five minutes — then into Mapua for refreshments. Off we pedalled again via some cycleway and road heading for Tapawera. Very hot; relieved to reach the very rustic campground. Quiet afternoon; the pub was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so we rustled up dinner from the Four Square. The usual laughs and stories over wine and beers, and another early night. Rinse, reset, repeat.

Day 20: some very rustic accommodation — bordering on tragic. Very thin covers on the beds meant a cold night; I was actually a little relieved to get up and start the day. Off and away — past the Four Square again for the early coffee. Some big climbs today, 1000 metres and about 90 kilometres in total, plus lots of gravel. Lunch just before Lake Rotoroa, trying not to get eaten alive by the sandflies. Gorgeous little coffee shop run out of a lovely couple's home — their own homemade insect repellent of baby oil and Dettol worked remarkably well. On to the lake for the obligatory photo, then up a steep gravel climb and down into Murchison. Upgrade of accommodation tonight — a fabulous brand-new motel. Dinner at the pub, a roast lamb dinner absolutely needed.

Rinse, reset, repeat.

Days 19 and 20: Day 19 to Tapawera was a tough one — legs felt pretty dead, probably from the Maungatapu climb the day before. We stayed at the Tapawera Camping Ground, which earns the title of worst accommodation of the trip. Day 20 was pretty cool with a stop at Lake Rotoroa, which is very picturesque but you get absolutely nailed by the sandflies, so not a long stay. Our accommodation in Murchison feels like the Hilton after the previous night, but that is all part of the journey. Day 22 presents another big call — the Big River Trail — which has been playing on my mind. We did not do Big River last time as it was too dangerous. It is one of the iconic TA trails; short at only 50-odd kilometres but taking five to seven hours with a lot of hike-a-bike. I am in two minds. Toodle pip.